Friday, April 21, 2017

Day 50. part 3. April 19. Grand Canyon Village to Mile 690.6 (South Kaibab Trailhead) to 704.1 (Trail to Ribbon Falls) & back to Mile 698.5 (Clear Creek Trail) to campsite

Continued from Day 50, part 2. 

Day 50. Part 3. Wednesday April 19. Grand Canyon Village to Mile 690.6 (South Kaibab Trailhead) to 704.1 (Trail to Ribbon Falls) & back to Mile 698.5 (Clear Creek Trail) to campsite. Walked 13.5 on trail northbound plus 5.4 southbound plus 2.2 road walking from Yavapai Lodge plus 2 on Clear Creek Trail - in all walked 23.1 miles. For the 13.5 northbound on trail, 1895 up, 5269 down, total grade 535.7 ft/mi. For the 5.4 southbound in trail, 463 up, 1557 down, total grade 377.2. For the last 2 miles on Clear Creek Trail the app won't calculate but there was an overall elevation gain ( though with some ups and downs) of 1000 ft, so total grade at least 500 ft/mi. 

Let's see, trail Friends. I've talked about the last unexpectedly steep two mile stretch (which did not seem nearly so formidable this morning going downhill, and fresh). And about the early morning hike down into the canyon. And about Bright Angel creek. 

But I haven't yet talked about the final stretch of the pilgrimage to the broken bridge across Bright Angel creek, preventing access to Ribbon Falls and symbolically to the stories of transformation and redemption that it has come to embody for me. 

I had a fantasy (that I was not aware of until it was contradicted) of a dramatically broken bridge, snapped or torn loose by wild winds or flooding waters or a falling tree. In fact, the bridge was suffering from undramatic old age. The wooden walkway across it had grown fragile from exposure to the desert sun. It was splitting and fraying and in some places broken through. Obviously the concern was that a hiker might step and the wood give in a way that could lead to serious injury. Photo 11 is a collage: the top shows the bridge as I approach it (looking intact), lower left shows a hole in the bridge tread, lower middle shows the whole tread (maybe if you look close you will see some fragile areas), lower right shows the sign forbidding crossing. Though I am sure I could have crossed cautiously and safely, I was already stretching my day by going that far and chose not to disobey. 

 

One could wax philosophic about the worn down, closed bridge that crosses the rushing muddy river of our bright spirits and personal fates to a place where the people can emerge out of darkness into light. For me I think it was enough to have completed my pilgrimage. The task-oriented part of me smiled like a Cheshire Cat and licked her lips. In this world where we control and understand so little, where completion is elusive, what a joy to conceive of and reach an achievable goal. The illusion of being master of my fate. Even as I bow to the fact that the bridge across the river is closed!

The hike to (and back from) the worn out bridge was beautiful. It reminded me of gorges that Chris and I have hiked in Crete. More dramatic, but beautiful in a similar way. There's a helicopter again and I wonder if it is doing search and rescue. 

So photos 12 to 14 are my picks for that part of yesterday's hike. 

 


 

 

It is hard to believe my Arizona Trail hike is over. Today I rest (hard to do: I want a task to give me all those false reassurances of control and predictability I so cherish), tomorrow early I hike up the canyon. Then a day or two relaxing on the south rim, back to Flagstaff to visit Tim and Melody, and heading home to Orcas Tuesday April 25. 

Thank you for making this pilgrimage with me. 

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